How to age gracefully – the sequel
Part 3 of our final day in Australia and the visit to Keith Tulloch Wines.
Part 1 can be found here- 2014 Keith Tulloch The Kester Shiraz
Part 2 can be found here- 1998 Dopff & Irion Riesling Grand Cru Schoenenbourg
I have a habit of searching for the ugly ducklings that blossom into swans. Wines from poor vintages, that everyone writes off, but surprise after time. It is a painful process. The reality is, for the most part, good vintages do in fact produce the best wines. Perhaps it is time to give up this pastime?
The Alsace vintage of ’98 was average, yet produced a wine of class that aged incredibly well. Waving the flag bravely for the poor vintages. Then we moved onto the ’01 vintage, an extremely good vintage by all reports. Sadly, for the ’98 vintage, it was utterly outclassed in every respect. At the time I argued for youth, after all, the ’01 was three years younger. On reflection, it was simply a much better wine.
The ’98, ’01 and all the Chablis were opened and poured into stemware. Over the course of the next few hours, the wines had an opportunity to present themselves at their best.
Vibrant straw in the glass. The nose is dominated by lemons and limes, surprisingly youthful, with hints of lanolin and beeswax. An impressive concentration that keeps you coming back, as it fluctuates between youth and graceful development. The nose indicates a wine in its prime. On the palate, there is a mouth-filling texture that is wrapped in impressive acid. The acid is tense and provides a wonderful structure. Next to the ’98 it seems far more powerful. Citrus flavours sit at the front of the palate, yet it is framed by lanolin and a sweet sherbert finish. A wine in its prime, with time to develop even further. For me, this is aged Alsace at its best, straddling youthful flavours and delivering beautiful development.
Flying the flag for good vintage conditions.
Drink now.
94 pts.
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| Alisdair Tulloch and Assistant Winemaker Brendan Kaz |
