Chardonnay shines brightest in Chablis.
Chablis is our favourite expression of Chardonnay. Montrachet can be stunning, Australia produces the occasional standout, but I am yet to encounter Chardonnay that matches Chablis. The purity of fruit, genuine vineyard terroir and a stunning minerality combine to make this region of France the Chardonnay mecca of the wine world.
It would be a wasted opportunity to not try these three Grand Crus together. All from the 2007 vintage, from the hand of the same winemaker and from Grand Cru vineyards all within twelve kilometers of each other. A chance to experience vineyard terroir from an area where terroir is expressed at its finest.
The 2007 vintage in Chablis was excellent. The following notes are from Didier Séguier, chief winemaker at Domaine William Fèvre-
‘The month of April followed a mild winter and was ardently sunny, exceptionally warm and very dry, breaking the record of 1921. A few spells of harmful hail storms interspersed this exceptional spring. Some flower abortion was also noticed. It was caused by a marked drop in the temperature arisen from mid-May. This coolness was combined with heavy showers and kept up practically all the summer long, except a true summery week in July. Thanks to cool temperatures the sanitary risks were controlled. So as to finish the vintage the end of August and the month of September displayed a glorious weather. This way the perfected grapes maturity shows itself with a really charming fruit, an aromatic expression of an exceptional elegance. Great freshness and sumptuous minerality are other 2007 characteristics.’
2007 Domaine William Fèvre Chablis Grand Cru Valmur
Valmur has somewhat of a split personality as a vineyard. Split in two, each side can offer its own unique terroir. Straw with hints of green, youthful. Pears and citrus flower on the nose with a touch of honeysuckle in the background. There is plenty of lovely salinity. A distinctly Chablis nose. The palate is complex, with Pears and citrus dominating. It is a powerful wine yet remains elegant. Youthful acidity indicates this wine has years ahead of it. Beautiful, distinctly Chablis.
Drink now – 2025
93 pts
2007 Domaine William Fèvre Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos
Les Clos is the largest and most famous Grand Cru vineyards in Chablis. Dark straw in the glass. It seems to show a little more development than the Valmur. Apricot and pineapple fruit dominate the nose, with beeswax and a touch of honey. The nose is framed by an incredible oyster shell minerality. So pronounced it almost overpowers the fruit, stunning. On the palate there is terrific minerality, more of the oyster shell and great acid holding it together. Again, this is a youthful wine, but the minerality and acid dominate here compared to the Valmur. Remarkable wine.
Drink now – 2025
94 pts
2007 Domaine William Fèvre Chablis Grand Cru Les Preuses
Of all the Grand Cru vineyards, in my experience, Les Preuses produces some of the most age-worthy Chablis. Light straw. Pure, linear wet rock and oyster shell. A wine that presents structure and minerality ahead of fruit. In the background, lemon blossom and pretty flowers. A stunning nose that I kept returning to. It was not that it lacked fruit, it was just dominated by saline oyster shell and rocky minerality. The palate delivered the same profile, lemon blossom and hints of pear, incredible acid and a stunning mineral finish. My wine of the day and possibly the best white wine I have experienced. If I tasted the wine blind, I would have guessed Chablis, but possibly 2012 vintage. Powerful and elegant, the wine is still youthful.
Drink now – 2030
95 pts
