There is something entirely pleasurable about a wine that defies a vintage. These outliers that impress despite natures attempts to bring them undone. It is even better when critics pan a wine and it responds by blossoming into something special.
The 2011 vintage was considered a disaster in Victoria, the Macedon region no exception. Record rainfall before and during harvest resulted in a vintage that growers described as difficult and critics declared a catastrophe. When the wines were released, it was hard to find a commentator willing to be impressed by anything associated with 2011.
I have always had a soft spot for Curly Flat. The vineyard sits on land which was once owned by the grandparents of Shell’s Mum. Grazing land mostly, and it is stunning. More than that, the attention to detail in both the vineyard and the winery is meticulous. The barrel classification by selection committee is about as democratic as winemaking gets. In my opinion the true secret to the Curly Flat success is geography. The French call it terrior, and Curly Flat has it.
Unlike other Pinot Noir growing areas, Mornington and Yarra, Macedon relies on elevation rather than coastal aspect or cold valleys to get the ripeness required from the demanding Pinot grape. Where coastal currents keep the Mornington cool, they sit on sandy soil for the most part, although there are some exceptions. For the Yarra, it relies on valleys for its cold climate. These valleys are often rich in fertile, loamy soil, too rich for the grape.
Macedon, perched high in the mountains has an excellent climate for Pinot, and the soils are lean volcanic basalt, again, perfect for Pinot. Cold nights, long warm days and meticulous attention to vines and winemaking, I am a fan.
The 2011 Curly Flat was panned on release. Lighter than the 2010, which was pristine concentrated fruit, it was tightly wound, had very little ripe fruit and a certain delicate floral and mushroom feel to it. Fast forward two years and the wine is starting to get international attention and some wine critics are a little nervous.
We loved it from the start, nine years later it is still mesmerising.
Light colour, barely red and now showing some signs of ageing. Raspberries and soft cherries sit in the background to lavender, flowers and mushrooms. It is a complex nose that requires more attention and reveals itself moment by moment. It is savoury, not fruit that drives the nose. The palate is elegant and held together with surprisingly tight acid. In the mouth it seems narrow, yet expands and finishes with tremendous length.
A thought provoking wine that keeps calling you back. Great drinking.
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