Join the club.
Some vintages are difficult. Despite the romantic notions associated with wine, grapes are fruit, they grow in vineyards and mother nature does not care what baumé your grapes are; when you need rain, and when you do not and how much sunshine there is in September. In 2014 around the Barolo region, mother nature cared not at all, it was a tough year for grape growers. To make matters worse, 2013 and 2015 were good, making 2014 an ugly duckling.
This all came to a strange conclusion at a recent sale, where the 2015 Pio Cesare Barolo was listed for a very good price. A few friends, myself included could not pass on the bargain. Imagine the outrage when the retailer started delivering the much-maligned 2014 vintage. Many punters returned the bottles, requesting the 2015 vintage, and rightly so.
I had just completed a write up on the 2011 Curly Flat Pinot Noir, a brilliant wine from a terrible vintage. The article outlined my theory that poor vintages might produce great wines, just in a different style to the usual, riper vintages. With my own comments ringing in my ears I declared that I would not be returning my allotment, and I actually think the 2014 vintage will produce great wines. Brave words from foolish minds.
Soon after a friend opened the 2014 Pio Cesare Barolo and described it as ‘thin and undrinkable’. Rather than quietly retracting my previous comments, I doubled down, declaring the bottle an anomaly, and continuing my advocacy of the vintage. It all became a bit of a joke and I am known these days as the President of the 2014 Barolo Club.
So there was much anticipation surrounding the opening of this bottle, and it did not disappoint.
Not decanted, consumed over two hours.
100% Nebbiolo.
Medium ruby in the glass. The wine takes little time to present itself, classic Barolo. The initial primary fruit of raspberries soon darkens to ripe black currant fruit. Supporting the fruit is a sweet rose petal aroma. So intense it almost dominates, but it sits beautifully with the black currant. There are nutmeg spices, but I do not think it is from oak, tertiary elements of fresh fennel and sweet tobacco round out powerful, yet pretty nose. The palate defies logic. The wine has medium-plus acid combined with tannins so big they dry your teeth. Despite this contradiction, the wine is harmonious, the fruit is crunchy, sour black currants, supported by sweet spiciness. This is a terrific wine. If I were tasting it blind I would not consider the vintage poor, perhaps a slight lack of fruit concentration the only indication.
I am now taking membership for the 2014 Barolo Club, I hear demand is high.
Drink now – 2030+
93 pts.
