Consistently classic Chianti.
Part 2 of Sunday evening.
Part 1, here 2012 Bodegas Sierra Cantabria Rioja Reserva
Burgundy might be our wine sweet spot, but that matters little when you are on a Chianti budget. The difference is vast, yet Chianti offers an honesty that other affordable wines cannot. Most Chianti rarely sees new oak, relying entirely on fruit, there is nowhere to hide. The wines are an expression of grape, vineyard and vintage.
Chianti is as much about structure and savoriness as it is fruit. Their hallmark is their approachability at all ages. Unlike the Brunello’s of Montalcino, who are often difficult in their youth, Chianti is reliably drinkable on release.
We have three of four Chianti producers that we drink regularly. Along with Fontodi, Fèlsina is the most fruit-forward Chianti we drink. The savory elements sit in the background, the fruit dominates. We often share this with guests who find some Chianti’s lacking in fruit and textural mouthfeel. Always a winner.
Decanted for 45 minutes.
Medium garnet with a slight clearing rim. The nose is driven by the fruit, sour cherries and red currants. It seems an odd combination but they are both present. The primary fruit is supported by pine cones and almonds in the background. On paper, the nose sounds linear and one dimensional, but this wine has both power and complexity on the nose. On the palate, the wine has medium-plus acid and medium tannins. The fruit drives the palate, but it is a textural wine. The acid is in balance with the fruit, giving the wine a full-bodied mouthfeel. A Chianti that delivers powerful fruit and is great drinking.
Some wines just consistently deliver, Fèlsina Berardenga is one of these.
Drink now – 2030.
91 pts.
