2014 Domaine Bessa Valley Enira Reserva

Bulgaria beckons.

You don’t often see Bulgarian wine for sale. We spotted this wine on a recent sale and decided to try it purely for interest’s sake. Wine can be simply about drinking, which is fine, it can also provide a history lesson for those looking further than what is in the glass.

Bulgarian wine history is fascinating. During the 1970s and 1980s, Bulgari was the 4th largest producer of wine in the world. Almost every drop was consumed by Russia, Bulgaria being under Russia control, the entire industry was a state-run affair.

After the break up of the Soviet Union, the vineyards were returned to families and most were left unattended. During the late 1990s and early 2000s, Bulgarian wine enjoyed a renaissance, with attention to both vineyard care and winemaking seeing a shift toward boutique quality wines. After all, the region enjoys similar climatic conditions to both Northern Italy and Southern Rhone.

Bulgaria can be broken into six wine-growing regions, as shown in the map below. The vineyards of Domaine Bessa Valley sit at the very northern point of the Struma Valley. Like most of Bulgaria, the plantings are mostly Bordeaux varieties, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, and Petit Verdot.

Bulgaria does have native grape varieties which would be interesting to track down. These include Mavrud, which produces pronounced cherry and chocolate flavours. Melink 55, which grows exclusively in the Struma Valley and, Rubin a hybrid of Nebbiolo and Syrah.

Wine is like anything in life, you need to explore beyond your comfort zone, try different things. Bulgarian vino may not shift your wine paradigm, but exploring the history and wines of a new region is like taking a virtual holiday in these times where travel is not possible.

Not decanted.

Deep ruby. After some initial funk, the nose presents itself. Blackberries dominate with a strong yet pleasant allspice note. In the background is milk chocolate that soon evolves into a sweet, buttery, macadamia nut aroma. The nose is very pretty and appealing without being mesmerising. By no means a simple wine, but there is no real complexity. On the palate, the wine is medium acid, medium body, and medium tannin. Entirely medium. Blackberries again on a palate that is soft and textured. The macadamia nuts add a textural sweetness and there is lingering spicy heat from the allspice. This is an altogether pleasant wine. It certainly won’t blow your mind, however, it is well made, faultless, and entirely pleasurable drinking.

For our first foray into Bulgarian wines, this is a lovely introduction.

Drink now – 2025.

89 pts.