The star of the show.
Wine 3 of the Wineknot dinner with Kevin and Jenny.
Wine 1 Review here – 2011 Michele Chiarlo Barbaresco Reyna
Wine 2 Review here – 2016 Fattoria di Fèlsina Berardenga Chianti Classico Riserva Rancia
Kevin is known as the ‘Torbreck man’ around here. The go-to person if you are looking to purchase across the range. He does not mind knocking a wine or two either, honesty is his trademark. He recently opened the super-premium ‘Laird’ for Jenny’s birthday and while he loved the wine, he was frank when making comparisons to the RunRig.
We had never tried a RunRig. The wine carries a cult-like status in Australia. Dave Powell, after serving under Chris Ringland at the iconic Rockfrod wines in the Barossa, started Torbreck in the early 1990s. He quickly developed relationships with some of the region’s local growers, giving him access to vineyards that were ancient, some over 100 years.
His flagship wine was RunRig. Made in the Côte Rôtie style with a small amount of Viognier, the wine was favourably received by the the reviewers. Parker, who has a sweet spot for big Australian Shiraz gave the ’16 we had on Friday night 100/100. That means nothing to me, modern wine critics give 90 to a glass of water.
Powell parted ways with Torbreck in 2014, but his legacy remains.
Thank you to Kevin and Jenny for sharing this wine with us.
Decanted for three hours although I sat on my glass for over six hours as it evolved throughout the night.
Inky dark purple in the glass. On the nose initially closed, showing plums and vanilla oak. After a while, it opened up, plums, blueberries, five-spice, and chocolate. Intense, almost overwhelming. Later the chocolate faded and it was all fruit and hints cigar before finally, just before I left, the fruit had retracted completely and it was a Christmas pudding of vanilla and sweet spices. I am sure the wine would have changed again if I had the endurance to keep going. On the palate it powerful, yet surprisingly elegant. Make no mistake, it is a big wine, but the oak, tannin, and acid are harmonious and integrated. It is layered and textured.
Certainly, one of the best Australian Shiraz I have tried, but definitely a wine for the patient, as this RunRig will not show its best for a decade.
Drink 2030 – 2040.
97 pts.
