A closer look at the wines from Saturday’s Italian lunch.
My first two Piedmont wines were a 2014 Elio Altare Barolo and a 2012 Fiorenzo Nada Barbaresco Manzola. Both were oxidised and needed to be replaced. Not a great start to my Piedmont journey. I am yet to try the Elio Altare, but opening and sharing the Fiorenzo Nada on Saturday was a successful experience.
Since that bad Piedmont start, I have had nothing but success. While Nebbiolo dominates the collection, both Barbera and Fresia from the region are impressive. After Burgundy, which does not suit my budget, Nebbiolo of Piedmont is my favourite style. It has similarities with Burgundy, but I find it entirely different. Less fruit-driven, more acidic and savory. There is an elegance they both share, for me, they are very different wines styles.
The concept of single-vineyard wines is taking hold in Piedmont. Like the Crus of Burgundy, the expression of a single microclimate gives the drinker an opportunity to experience genuine wine terroir. Many Piedmont producers have taken this path, and I am glad for it. Trying wines from the same vintage, by the same winemaker from different vineyards is a unique experience.
This from the Manzola vineyard. As my experience with Barolo and Barbaresco develops, I hope one day to be able to identify these individual parcels of land in the same way I might a Premier or Gran Cru of Burgundy.
100% Nebbiolo.
Medium garnet. Classic Barbaresco nose, with a pronounced chocolate milk note. Although it took some time to open entirely. Strawberry fruit supported by roses and other florals. An entirely elegant and feminine nose, yet complex and revealing more as the day went on. On the palate, medium plus acid that initially seemed out of balance with the delicate fruit, but eventually settled. More strawberries on the palate, a lingering length. About as Barbaresco as it gets. Very good wine.
