The Morey Saint Denis obsession.
My dive into Burgundy began when I started to get interested in Australian Pinot Noir. A Mornington producer commented ‘it is in the Burgundy style’, when he poured a wine for tasting. I have grown to hate that term, but the wine held me transfixed. It teased at the senses, powerful, yet restrained. If this was in the ‘Burgundy style’, I needed to try some Burgundy.
It is a very deep rabbit hole, and for no real reason it started in Morey Saint Denis. Like everything I do, I couldn’t just dip the toe. Burgundy was intriguing, and I had not ventured outside of Morey. To this day I still have a soft spot for the commune, although Chambolle-Musigny is my favourite.
Aux Chéseaux is as north is you can get in Morey. The premier cru vineyard consistently produces elegant and concentrated expressions of Burgundy.
Domaine Odoul-Coquard is a small producer and one of the few Domaines I buy across their entire portfolio. Consistency and focus in both the vineyard and winery is their trademark.
Decanted for 30 minutes.
Bright purple in the glass. Dark fruits, cherries and blackberries in a layered dense nose. The fruit gives way to violets, lavender and a little star anise framed by earthy mushrooms. On the palate the fruit is pronounced and supported by medium acid. A lingering finish of fine, powdery tannins gives the wine terrific length. The wine is still young, with plenty of time for further development. Currently it is showing its class. Textured, powerful elegance.
92 pts.
Drink 2025 – 2030
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