The noblest of rot.
History can be hazy when anomalies turn to gold. At some point in wines long and experimental history, grapes covered in mould, botrytis cinerea, were fermented and the result was a literal liquid gold. It was likely an accident, regardless, every wine region in Europe is claiming the glory.
While most of Europe makes a claim, Austria has what appears to be the first recorded transaction and a perfect climate for the noble rot.
Promotions do not come cheap in Burgenland in the 17th century. When the free town of Rust, on the western edge of the Neusiedlersee decided to become a ‘royal free town’, the privilege would be expensive. In 1681, the Reichstag in Ödenburg, the man who makes such decisions, declared the town of Rust, both free and now royal. To compensate Emperor Leopold I, he was to be paid in ‘real and liquid gold’, the entire 1681 vintage of Ruster Ausburch, around 30 000 litres. A further 60 000 Guilders to further sweeten the deal. Rust was set to be royal.
Ruster Ausburch was likely what is now Trockenbeerenauslese, high quality desert wine affected by botrytis. The rest is history. Botrytis affected grapes can be found from Canada to Australia these days.
Save the science for another day, to summarise, botrytis has a desiccating affect on grapes, reducing moisture content and concentrating sugars. There is more going on, some conversions of simple sugars which give the wine its distinct honey characteristics, but the harvested grape is basically full of sugar and very little moisture.
Australia, particularly the Hunter Valley, New South Wales, makes some fine examples. Semillon thrives in the area, has a the thin skin that botrytis loves. The wine region is humid, the valley receives little winds. It is perfect for noble rot.
The wine on the tasting bench this evening is the Semillon variety, but out of Maclaren Vale, South Australia. While it does not quite share the climate of the Hunter Valley, careful vineyard work yields great results.
Medium amber in the glass. Dried apricots, bitter oranges and orange marmalade dominate the nose with grilled sweet pineapple and honey. There is a sweet apple and guava juice thing going on as well. On the palate, high viscosity provides a textured mouthfeel, honey and pineapple hit the front of the palate. Sweet bitter marmalade with a hint of white pepper on the finish. Held together with medium acidity.
These wines are not really my style, but great nonetheless.
90 pts.
Drink now – 2030.
Excellent value for money.
