I have woken up slightly ill. A sore throat. A heavy chest.
Lack of antioxidants is the likely issue. More wine definitely the solution.
“Illness is the night side of life, a more onerous citizenship. Everyone who is born holds dual citizenship, in the kingdom of the well and in the kingdom of the sick. Although we all prefer to use the good passport, sooner or later each of us is obliged, at least for a spell, to identify ourselves as citizens of that other place.”
Susan Sontag
Breakfast and a discussion on what we will do today. We could head to Florence and walk the city or take another drive through the countryside and visit Brunello di Montalcino. Given how close it is to Christmas, it is unlikely any wineries will be open, but it would be nice to see the vineyards of this famous region.
While we drink mostly Chianti, Italy produces two world class wines, Barolo and Brunello di Montalcino. The DOCG requirements for Brunello are even tighter than Chianti. Only Sangiovese can be used a minimum of five years aging before release. As much as I love Chianti, if I had the budget, I would drink more Barolo and Brunello di Montalcino.
“Within certain limits, it is actually true that the less money you have, the less you worry.”
George Orwell
We head to Montalcino, winding our way out of Chianti. The landscape changes when you are out of the mountains, definitely more rural. The steep slopes of Chianti mean usable land is premium, down in the valleys where land is not as valuable, Industrial Zones exist.
Our first stop is Buonconvento. There is a market on the main street and a walled castle. We walk through the walled castle. Something like this in Australia would be memorable, here is is just another beautiful, ancient castle in ajust another beautiful Italian village. One stall in the market is selling some incredible cured meats.
On to Montalcino, taking the back roads to see the vineyards. Ancient Sangiovese on rolling hills. Most of the wineries are closed, but this journey was more about visiting the region that produces some of the worlds great wines. It is after 13:00 and a thick fog still shrouds the vines. As we approach Montalcino we can seethe valleys where the vineyards sit, completely covered in a blanket of white.
Parking on the outskirts of Montalcino we don’t get to visit the city as the ticket meter is not working and I don’t want to risk a fine. Normally I wouldn’t care, but after Turkey, where I was receiving fines for weeks after we left, I am a little cautious.
Across the road from the car park is a wine store. Packed with Brunello and Chianti we grab a bottle to take home for Christmas. On the way out there is a shelf of half bottles so we grab a Vietti Barolo as well.
It is getting late so we start to head home. A late lunch today, we are not having dinner at Le Pappe. Shell finds il Ocale di Guido in D’Arbia. Its a local place, but the food is outstanding. We order Tagliatelle al ragù di cinghale (wild boar), Pici al ragù and filetto alla griglia to share. We finish with tiramisu and biscotto with vin santo.
“Though their life was modest, they believed in eating well.”
James Joyce
We drive home and go for an afternoon walk. Shell finds a trail off to the side and decides we must explore it. Of course she does. It is a beautiful walk, in the distance you can hear gunfire. There is plenty of rooting along the trail, and Shell finds some tracks.
“I only went out for a walk and finally concluded to stay out till sundown, for going out, I found, was really going in.”
John Muir
We light the fire and have bath. The windows are open and we are finishing the two bottles of Bibi Graetz from last night.
Montepulciano tomorrow for Christmas. After that, Roma.
Bed. I hope the antioxidants ward of this cold.