“The shattered wall,
Michael Alexander
the broken tower
have a story to tell –
from the touchstones of ruins
and ancient texts
we make a pilgrimage.”
We wake up to blue skies and a crisp morning of 5C.
Shell suggests a walk. There are sandstone caves and digs nearby. I realise this random, tiny little village in the middle of nowhere right not to be so random.
Szomolyai kaptárkövek tanösvény is a series of beehive stone formations just outside of Szomolyai.
It was a beautiful stroll in the early morning chill as we thought about what the carvings might have been for. It seems inherent in mankind no wonder the purpose of things. It is likely how we have ‘progressed’ so far. We seem utterly incapable of not knowing something.
“Our main difference from chimps and gorillas is that over the last 3 million years or so, we have been shaped less and less by nature, and more and more by culture.”
Robin Wright
According to the Kaptárkő Egyesület, there has been much speculation regarding the carvings, their purpose, age, and who created them. Despite scientific endeavors, we still don’t know.
And I am comfortable with that.
We can’t seem to find a breakfast place. Finally, after a few false starts, we settled for a bakery.
There is no doubt that hunger makes things more delicious.
Some kind of rolled pizza for under a few dollars.
“It is fatal to look hungry. It makes people want to kick you.”
George Orwell
We start the journey to Slovakia with an acute lack of caffeine.
The problem is solved when we find a tiny place on the side of the road.
Free biscuits.
“Even bad coffee is better than no coffee at all.”
David Lynch
Shell is the chief navigator. She always chooses the option ‘no tolls’ and ‘no freeways’.
We end up on some of the most picturesque drives. Sweeping mountain forests and fertile villages in the valleys.
This is the beauty of driving. The freedom to explore the most remote places.
Our destination is Poprad, in the North East of Slovakia. It is a ski village, but the ski season is over, so great discounts can be found.
Before Poprad, Shell has a detour to a castle.
You don’t have expectations when you head to a castle. I was unsure if we would have a tiny ruin or some kind of Tolkien Minas Tirith scenario.
“The Beacons of Minas Tirith! The Beacons are lit! Gondor calls for aid.”
J R R Tolkien
Spiš castle sits above the town of Spišské Podhradie and the village of Žehra and was built in the 12th Century, probably by a king, or some other important person.
It is imposing. Formidable, and beautiful.
More castles will likely be on the journey, but I can’t imagine them being quite as impressive as Spiš.
“We’ll be remembered more for what we destroy than what we create.”
Chuck Palahniuk
We arrive in Poprad. Our accommodation is exceptional, and we are booked in for dinner. The place is called doma U NÁS.
We open a bottle of Kovács Nimród Winery ‘SKY’ (notes here) and enjoy our beautiful apartment while we wait for dinner reservations.
We head to dinner.
It is a beautiful restaurant.
We start with the Duck Bánh bao each and a beef jiaozi to share.
For mains, we have the slow-cooked beef cheeks with parsnip purée and the slow-roasted lamb with truffled mash.
We finish with dessert delivered to the bedroom, poppy seed cake, and chocolate cake.
Everything was outstanding, although the desserts were underwhelming.
Time for bed.
We have the difficult task of finding somewhere to stay tomorrow that can live up to tonight’s accommodation.
“They listened to the music, each hearing it in his own way, feeling relaxed and a part of the music, a part of each other, and almost a part of the world. ”
Hubert Selby Jr.
Wow!!! It all looks amazing😀 And here am I struggling to catch a bus in case my body says no more walking today🤣 I wish the weather was cold here but expecting mid to high twenties😳
Is your body being disagreeable?