Guebwiller – France

“They had spent a year in France for no particular reason, and then drifted here and there unrestfully wherever people played polo and were rich together.”

F. Scott Fitzgerald

I slept well.

Our place has floor to ceiling windows on two sides, and I thought the light would keep us awake. Somehow, in the heart of the village, there is no light and no sound.

We sleep in and tap out a 5 km run while the day is still cool.

The kitchen is tiny, and it is a logistical effort to cook eggs and toast the leftover bread.

I make a coffee and sit in the morning sun, reading while we wait for Domaine Ginglinger to open.

Last night, we tried to make a reservation at Le Petit Bidon. We were unable to connect the call. We will try a walk-in.

The Grand Cru Rieslings of Domaine Ginglinger are equal to any wines I have tried.

Laser sharp and a pure expression of terroir. We tried two Grand Crus from the same vintage, both excellent, yet they could not be more different. One from 30 year old vines and limestone soil, the other from 60 year old vines on sandstone. It is hard to imagine that two vineyards, treated the same way in the winery, sharing the same climate, could be so different.

Four grapes make up the Grand Crus of Alsace. Riesling, Pinot Gris, Muscat, and Gewürztraminer. The region is vineyards from horizon to horizon, yet only 51 vineyards make up the AOC Grand Crus.

We took home two Grand Cru Rieslings –

2022 Domaine Ginglinger Eichberg Grand Cru Riesling (Alsace, France)

From 30 year old vines planted in limestone. Great acidity, pure and clean, with minerality forever. Lemons and honey on the nose. Dry and tight on the palate. Incredible complexity for such a young wine.

2022 Domaine Ginglinger Ollwiller Grand Cru Riesling (Alsace, France)

From 60 year old vines planted in sandstone. Incredible acidity, with immense structure, Grapefruit and beeswax on the nose. Another wine of power and complexity.

We didn’t even get in the front door of Le Petit Bidon. Parking in the village of Colmar is hazardous, and we soon gave up. Shell’s backup, L’Auberge du Vallon, is only a kilometer from our apartment, and happy to take our reservation.

For the next few hours, we sit in the mild French summer sun, drink Alsace Riesling and Pinot Noir, and enjoy one of the most memorable lunches I have ever experienced. No children, quiet conversation, excellent food, and a setting you might read about in a novel but never believe is real.

Shell starts with poêlée de St-Jacques, méli-mélo de salade. Seared scallops on a summer salad. For me, terrine marbrée au foie gras de canard et aux champignons; a terrine of foie gras and mushroom salad.

For the main meal, Shell has the escalope de poulet à la crème & aux champignons; chicken breast in a mushroom cream sauce. I choose the jarret de porc rôti à la bière; the pork knuckle in beer sauce.

We finish the meal with coffee and a crème brûlée. For me, a tarte aux myrtilles; the blueberry tart.

Shell decides to walk home via the cemetery. I get the car home intact.

Full, happy, I lay on the bed and read.

“You will never be happy if you continue to search for what happiness consists of. You will never live if you are looking for the meaning of life.”

Albert Camus