The other vintage of the century.
In Australia, particularly the Hunter Valley, even the most resilient consumer gets vintage fatigue. As winemakers wrap up picking, the grapes are pressed, fermented, barrelled or bottled, the media rolls out some old winemaker from a famous Hunter Valley family and he declares ‘this was the best vintage in living memory’. It is a Groundhog Day moment, every single year.
It is all a show for the media I think. If you talk to winemakers direct, they will tell you honestly how things are going. Why wouldn’t they? If you purchase wine from the current ‘vintage of the century’ and it fails to meet expectations, you will not be going back for more. Honesty works in their favour.
Back in 1998 winemakers across the Hunter were unanimous in their praise for the vintage. Not just the Hunter Valley, most of Australia enjoyed favourable vintage conditions. It was on the back of the incredible ’96 vintage, which of course was lauded as one of the best vintages in recent memory. I recall Ian Riggs of Brokenwood quietly telling a few of us he thought the ’98 was better than the ’96.
Along rolls 2000. If ’96 was the best vintage in living memory and ’98 even better, I was entirely skeptical when Trevor Drayton declared on the local news channel that 2000 vintage would produce reds that surpass both the ’98 and ’96 vintage. Vintage fatigue ad nauseam.
I remained skeptical until I found myself at Tyrrells Wines one afternoon and was fortunate to try the 2000 Vat 6 from the barrel prior to bottling. Having tried the benchmark Hunter Shiraz’s from both the ’96 and ’98 vintages, Graveyard, Vat 6, Kester, and, Maurice O’Shea, I was starting to believe that the reports on 2000 were not just hyperbole. The 2000 Vat 6 was special.
In my opinion, the 2000 vintage in the Hunter Valley was the standout of the decade. High praise considering the wines produced in ’96 and ’98. When this Glenguin single-vineyard popped up at auction it pricked my interest. A reliable auction house, provenance confirmed, no reserve price, and from the capable hands of Robin Tedder.
I landed it for a steal, $20AUS. I have not been able to track down my notes for this wine, but I remember drinking it with Shell and it was outstanding. At fifteen years old, this wine confirmed my belief in the 2000 vintage.
