Watching the sun come up over the Tuscan hills from the balcony of our Montepulciano apartment on Christmas Day. It sounds like a bad romance novel, but here we are.
Merry Christmas.
Last night was the best night sleep I have had in a long while. The antioxidants must have kicked in, because I am feeling better today.
Breakfast is included and I feel a pang of guilt for Frederica who is missing Christmas morning with her family to take care of us. We are eating in what would have been the parlor or salotto. It is a vast space filled with fresco. It is easy to imagine Mariotto Carletti hosting political friend and foes, negotiating with the French. The Carletti’s became one of the most influential families in Tuscany until their political downfall. It is a dangerous game, global politics, I will stick with breakfast.
“People are always shouting they want to create a better future. It’s not true. The future is an apathetic void of no interest to anyone.”
Milan Kundera
Montepulciano is a city built for walking. Sure, the streets are steep, but you can walk forever getting lost in all the turns and tight streets. As we walk out of the walls of the city and look down the steep slopes, I can’t begin to imagine how an army would lay siege to a city with walls like this. During the 12th century, Siena gave it a try, but from what I have read, the city held on every occasion.
“Only the dead have seen the end of war.”
Plato
After our walk we return to Palazzo Carletti and relax. The morning stroll has left us parched, so we open a half pottle of Prosecco. Bubbly is acceptable in the morning so we have maintained the drinking protocols of civilised people.
“The world was my oyster but I used the wrong fork.”
Oscar Wilde
Options are limited for lunch, it is Christmas Day after all. We stroll the streets looking for somewhere before settling on Bistrot del Tribunale Pizzeria and Wine Bar. We order a lasagne and a pizza to share. There seems to be come confusion with the pizza as it comes with a pesto sauce. Honestly, it is not the best meal we have had on our travels, but it will do. Standard tiramisu and vis santo for desert.
We settle in at home an open a few bottles of wine. There is a little left of the Dei from last night, and we open the Chinanti and the Brunello. Lined up in somewhat of a Sangiovese battle, Shell tastes them blind. After careful consideration she declares the Chianti Classico as her preference. Knowing what each wine is, I gravitate to the Brunello. Cognitive bias at its worst.
“There is no such thing as an innocent reading, we must ask what reading we are guilty of.”
Louis Althusser
A long afternoon of wine and we decide to go to the markets for a late dinner, which is early by Italian standards. Panini con porchetto is a must. Pork carved from an enormous piece of rolled pork on a toasted panini. There is a line up at Brifficio di Montelpuciano is long, but the wait is worth it. At 6 eauros each, you can appreciate the popularity.
Home and bed.
Tomorrow, Rome.
Todays wines –
2019 Dei Montepulciano di Nobile (Montepulciano, Italy)
2020 Lamole di Lamole Duelame Chianti Classico (Chianti, Italy)
2005 Molinari Carlo Brunello di Montalcino (Montalcino, Italy)
Full notes – here
Photos are just beautiful – it is my kind of heaven wandering narrow streets, getting lost – you are so lucky having each other to explore these stunning towns. Enjoy every moment.
We are very lucky, to have each other and to have the opportunity to see these places.