16 April 2022
Not a great start. Our room is 4 / 5. The postal box is clearly marked 4 / 5. Only an idiot would put the keys in the incorrect box. I spent the next ten minutes fishing the keys out of 4 / 4. Got there in the end.
“Whenever a man does a thoroughly stupid thing, it is always from the noblest motives.” ― Oscar Wilde
Bar to Petrovac today. It is our 5th day straight so a short trip, only 20 km. A nice big hill to get the heart rate up. We cruise out in fine weather.
It is one long coastline. The water here is a different colour to Australia. The beaches are not surf beaches. The mountains just drop into the ocean. The roads hug the mountainside. Everywhere there is a space, a village pops ups and climbs the mountain. It is a coast road that can be at sea level or 400 m of elevation.
Beautiful views. Big climbs. Fun downhills.
The day has some humidity. It is only 23˚C but I am drenched on the big climb. I should be in my hot weather shirt but I got so sunburnt in it a few days ago. My shoulders are peeling. I am not ready for another singeing.
Tunnels are not much fun. Tunnels without lighting are even less so. Tunnels without lighting and my bike light not working are scary. We had a thin path to ride on. It was rough and hard to navigate. The cars flew past. At times I was in complete blackness. I stopped a few times to wait for car headlights to light my way. When I got out Shell was waiting, worried something had happened. Survived.
“Use the wings of the flying Universe,
Dream with open eyes;
See in darkness.”
― Dejan Stojanovic
We arrive in Petrovac and find our spot. Our host is Savel. His place sits on the hillside above the port. There is a small olive grove to get to his place. He later tells us the trees are between 400 and 500 years old. We sit down and he offers us a drink. We politely refuse. It is the wine he makes himself. We politely accept.
It is a red wine made from indigenous grapes. His vineyard is somewhere inland, in a valley between the mountain ranges. It is as good a wine as I have tasted in Albania and Montenegro. We chat with Savel. He is a nice man. His philosophy on wellbeing is simple; avoid the three white deaths. Turns out these are sugar, salt, and flour. A little is OK. Not bad advice. Tough on flour.
“Moderation in all things, especially moderation.” ― Ralph Waldo Emerson
We shower and head to the waterfront for lunch. It is beautiful but touristy. I don’t really get a good vibe despite the natural beauty. We order and it takes forever. It is average and overpriced. Head home. Grab groceries on the way. Breakfast, lunch, and dinners. Nothing will be open tomorrow and it is a rest day.
Our place is old but has a great view of both mountains and the coast. The wind picks up. Over the next few hours, the breeze becomes a gale. The wind is howling. We check the weather, gusts of up to 85 km/h.
Something comes loose on the roof and makes a terrible racket. All night.
Read. Hardly Sleep.
Today’s ride –
