Gamlitz – Austria

“The real question of life after death isn’t whether or not it exists, but even if it does what problem this really solves.”

Ludwig Wittgenstein

Monday

My eye feels better and the redness seems reduced.

We slept with the window open to let the cold in. I slept well even with the sounds of Graz floating into the apartment on the cool air.

A cold day forecast. Clear skies. No snow.

We have a day of grocery shopping planned. We hope to arrive at the cabin later this afternoon and not leave. This means stocking up on food, including Christmas lunch, and more wine as it seems unlikely six bottles will see us through.

“Alcohol makes other people less tedious, and food less bland, and can help provide what the Greeks called entheos, or the slight buzz of inspiration when reading or writing. 

Christopher Hitchens

But first, breakfast.

The markets deliver—Sulmatler free range rooster, turnips, winter potatoes, pumpkin and brussel sprouts.

Cod fillet, artisan cheeses, and pork for Christmas Day.

The Mangalitza breed of pig dates back over 300 years. Introduced to the Styria region from Hungary. The butcher tells me there is no better eating swine.

Some bread, groceries, and more wine, and we leave the beautiful city of Graz.

Our cabin is about 10 minutes outside of Gamlitz in the heart of the Styria wine region.

The drive is slow. Small agricultural villages and then we climb into the mountains and the vineyards.

You need to be careful with expectations. If you build things up, there is only room for disappointment. I have been careful not to expect too much from our cabin.

Austrian Mountains, fireplace, nestled in a vineyard… caution required.

The cabin is beyond expectations. It is perched on a mountainside with views of the vineyards. It has a kitchen and a bath. There might not be snow where we are, but across the valley, there is a dusting of snow on the peaks.

There is a bottle of wine from the vineyard in the fridge, which I can see out of the kitchen window. Made in the winery I can see from the front door. Buy the couple who live in the house a few hundred meters down the road.

Sense of place is an understatement.

I made lunch, smoked mackerel on bread. We drink the wine from the Weingut.

I light the fire and drink the afternoon away.

“Wine gives one ‘ideas,’ whereas champagne gives one ‘strategies.”

Roman Payne

And the sun sets.

I have never cooked cod before.

I have never cooked cod sober.

I certainly have never cooked cod having just opened a third bottle of wine.

It’s a beefy looking piece of fish. Firm. You can leave the skin on. Surprised as the skin felt like leather.

Pan fired cod sauced with seaweed butter with boiled potatoes tossed in olive oil.

Paired with a local Styrian white.

Nailed it.

Tonight’s wine –

2022 Weinidylle Dreisiebner Welschriesling (Styria, Austria)

From the vineyard that surrounds our cabin and a gift from our host. The vineyards were planted in 1967 and are still in the Dreisiebner family. The Welschriesling were grafted over 15 years ago. Minerality, acidity, and pristine fruit.

2020 Sauska Siklós Villány Cabernet Franc (Tokaj, Hungary)

We picked this up in Budapest. Pretty, flowers and blue fruits. Cabernet Franc does better in Tokaj than its over rated cousin, Cabernet Sauvignon.

2022 Földi Bálint Badacsonyi Kéknyelú (Sándor, Hungary)

Kéknyelú is an important indigenous grape for the Sándor region. It produces complex wines with excellent balance. A perfect match for the cod.

We drink some more wine, listen to some music and watch the fire.

Perfection.