Walking the Eternal City – now please now

It is foolish to think a place will be how you remember it. Places, like people, change. When we were last in Rome, around two years ago, we had a regular place for coffee. Every morning we went there, ordered the same breakfast and the same coffee.

“You cannot step into the same river twice”
Heraclitus

We drop the car off and it is a relief to have it gone. The car allowed us the freedom to explore Italy in an intimate way, but Rome is not a city for cars.

We walk back toward Pergamino Caffè, where we spent most mornings during out two month stay in Rome two years ago. It was not how we remembered. The food was fine, the coffee ok, but it had lost its heart. Or maybe it was us. Maybe it was the same, but we had changed.

“Things cannot stay the same because they are influenced by everything else, everything that is not itself.”
Thích Nhất Hạnh

We stroll over to Wine Bar De’ Penitenzieri and it is exactly the same. Maybe some things do stay the same. Passing the Vatican as we go. I refuse to set foot in the place. Handing Bibles to starving nations in poverty while it has amassed 15 billion in wealth. A haven for pedophiles and the undisputed king of hypocrisy. The Vatican supported Mussolini, and Pope Pius XII never denounced Hitler and the Final Solution, even worse, the Vatican celebrated Hitlers birthday.

“Human decency is not derived from religion. It precedes it.”
Christopher Hitchens

There is a barber just outside the Vatican who does an excellent cut. I am overdue and Andrea Barber Borgo is not busy. I am shocked that they remembered me for my last visit.

A day for walking in a city not really made for walking. We lose the day in the maze of streets. Shell finds a very cool second hand store and picks up some nice skirts. Finally hunger brings us back toward the familiar. Scialla The Original Street Food was our lunch place and made some of the best pizza in Rome and na excellent cacio e pepe. As we walk past, there is a line up out the door.

We wait until 15:00 and head back. It is much quieter. We get a table but the pasta is sold out. No cacio e pepe today. Two pizzas and a glass of vino bianco.

Home for some wine before dinner at Interno 92.

I feel like this entire post is ‘the last time we were in Rome’ commentary and it is nauseating. I mean we have been here twice (counting this time) and I am constantly referencing the last time…

The last time we were in Rome it was Interno 92 that we celebrated out birthdays. To be honest, we don’t indulge in birthdays, it was really just an excuse to have dinner at a restaurant that was a little more expensive than usual.

Our reservation is for 19:30 and Interno 92 fills up very quickly. We order carpaccio di scottona con crema di zucca, crumble di pecorino e cipolle caramellate, spaghetti al ragù rosso di scottona and bistecca alla fiorentina. All to share. We finish with a tiramisu each.