Domaine Dirler Cadé

France

“You will never be happy if you continue to search for what happiness consists of. You will never live if you are looking for the meaning of life.”

Albert Camus

Sleep in and then take a vigorous morning walk.

Home for some porridge before our 10.00 am appointment with Domaine Dirler Cadé.

Domaine Dirler Cadé is the sweet spot that the natural wine movement looks down its nose on. Biodynamic since 1998, attention to detail in the vineyard – more horses, plenty of biodiversity. It is in the winery that the differences begin. Controlled fermentation with inoculated yeasts, but more importantly, good winery hygiene. None of these ancient, filthy barrels for fermentation that lasts months on end.

The result is a pure, faultless expression of vineyard, vine and vintage. You don’t need faulty wine made from wild yeast to see the difference between vintages, or vineyards. The terroir is expressed through pure, distinct wines that speak to time and place.

Luc, the son of the proprietors, Jean and Ludivine, took us through a tasting that lasted over two hours. It was a remarkable journey through vintages and vineyards. Luc is a fantastic young man with a mustache worthy of celebration.

There are plenty of stories that lend the Domaine emotional appeal. An ancient plot of Sylvaner in the Kessler vineyard that cannot be designated Grand Cru, kept because the grandfather loved to eat them off the vine during harvest.

A Shakespearean love story between Jean and Ludivine after a prized plot in the Saering Vineyard was given to the Cadé family, which was originally owned by the Dirler family. Decades of rivalry ensued before Jean and Ludivine met in vigneron college, fell in love, married against family wishes, and combined the estates.

What we tasted –

2022 Domaine Dirler Cadé Crémant d’Alsace Brut Nature

2020 Domaine Dirler Cadé Crémant D’Alsace Riesling Brut Nature

2022 Domaine Dirler Cadé Pinot Noir

2023 Domaine Dirler Cadé Sylvaner Vieilles Vignes

2010 Domaine Dirler Cadé Sylvaner Lieu-Dit Heisse Wanne

2022 Domaine Dirler Cadé Mémoire

2023 Domaine Dirler Cadé Muscat Grand Cru Spiegel Element “Air”

2023 Domaine Dirler Cadé Muscat Grand Cru Saering Element “Water”

2023 Domaine Dirler Cadé Riesling Grand Cru Kessler Element “Fire”

2023 Domaine Dirler Cadé Riesling Grand Cru Kitterlé Element “Earth”

2023 Domaine Dirler Cadé Riesling Grand Cru Saering Element “Water”

2023 Domaine Dirler Cadé Riesling Grand Cru Spiegel Element “Air”

2022 Domaine Dirler Cadé Riesling Grand Cru Kessler HW Element “Fire”

2022 Domaine Dirler Cadé Gewürztraminer Grand Cru Saering, Element “Water”

2022 Domaine Dirler Cadé Gewürztraminer Grand Cru Spiegel Element “Air”

2022 Domaine Dirler Cadé Gewürztraminer Grand Cru Kessler Element “Fire”

It was difficult to choose from all the Grand Crus. There is not a bad wine in the lineup.

We went with –

2020 Domaine Dirler Cadé Crémant D’Alsace Riesling Brut Nature

An unusual 100% Riesling Crémant. Powerful and balanced by the months on lees. Equal to many of the great Champagnes at one-tenth the price

2022 Domaine Dirler Cadé Pinot Noir

The first excellent Pinot Noir expression we have tried in Alsace.

2023 Domaine Dirler Cadé Riesling Grand Cru Saering Element “Water”

A stunning Riesling. Everything that you would expect. Laser focus, brilliantly balanced. Exceptional wine.

2022 Domaine Dirler Cadé Riesling Grand Cru Kessler HW Element “Fire”

The ‘HW’ is a special parcel in a special Grand Cru vineyard. One of the best Rieslings I have tried. A struggle to find the words to give it justice.

“Anyone whose goal is ‘something higher’ must expect someday to suffer vertigo. What is vertigo? Fear of falling? No, Vertigo is something other than fear of falling. It is the voice of the emptiness below us which tempts and lures us, it is the desire to fall, against which, terrified, we defend ourselves.”

Milan Kundera

Home to change from our casual clothes into our slightly less casual clothes.

Lunch at L’Auberge du Vallon is as much about the setting as the food. The food is great, but sitting under the trees in the garden on a warm summer day in Alsace is an extraordinary way to spend an afternoon.

I drop shell off and park the car. L’Auberge du Vallon is out of town and has no parking. By the time I arrive, Shell is happily seated in the dappled light, and the wine is poured.

To be honest, this is a rare occasion when I am not thirsty. Two hours of tasting have worn my palate out. It only takes a few minutes to resuscitate the thirst glands, and I finish both mine and Shell’s wine.

Rachelle orders the terrine de campagne and I order the foie gras sur du pain. I am conscious of how foie gras is made, but every delicious mouthful makes me forget. Lose consciousness?

The country terrine is delicious.

For mains, Shell goes with the filet de bar avec risotto au fromage et ratatouille. For me, the bavette à la crème de morilles, accompagnée de salade et de frites.

The sea bass is perfect, and the cheese risotto is rich and creamy.

Flank is always a little tough, but it makes up for it in flavour. The morel sauce is delicious.

We are too full for dessert.

Shell takes a nap, and I head out for a haircut.

I have a quiet night ahead.

“Be content with what you have;
rejoice in the way things are.
When you realize there is nothing lacking,
the whole world belongs to you.”

Lao Tzu